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People see each other here
Thoughts on Tehran
It’s strange being back in Iran. I lived here years ago, yet I still find my mind full of conceptions that are challenged each time I return; challenged by the surprisingly mundane realities of peoples lives.
I have no intention to be controversial here. Iran has concerning issues to say the least (which is also the most I can say). Yet, as always, world media profits more from selling drama and tragedy, than goodwill and humor.
Tehran is a big city, 8.7 million people big. That’s twice the population of LA and a few hundred thousand above NYC. But, it really doesn’t feel that way. Store owners greet you as you enter and help find what you need. Drivers pull down their windows to ask those next to them directions. Motorbikes ask permission as they need to pass by. Strangers apologize as they exit the elevator.
These observations are truer beyond Tehran. But, for such interactions to survive in a dense metropolis is noteworthy.
To put it simply, I feel seen here; even more than perhaps I’m comfortable with, having long adapted to the ease of invisibility in other modern metropolitan cities.
It is common to hear foreigners who have visited Iran complement its hospitality. Perhaps I’ve finally been away long enough to appreciate it. I admit, I still feel at times an alien in this land. However, that sense continues to fade with each day.
There are very real challenges here, but there is also great beauty, kindness, creativity, generosity, humility, honor, respect, elegance, and bravery.
It’s certainly worth visiting for anyone wanting to explore or re-explore it. Iran is in continual change and in some ways I truly believe for the better (ways in which are unfortunately complicated to document). However, I will say the people give me hope.
I hope you take this letter as a reminder to reconsider your conceptions of places and people you may not know as well as you think, and also to remember that places and people are always in continual change.
Wishing you a peaceful weekend,
Naser
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